New Tabistry Bodice/Vest Design - Experiments in Coloring Tabs

For this year of the Texas Renaissance Festival (TRF) I decided to test a design for a future Ghawazee-style coat.  I have started by making this shorter bodice/vest version for a close friend to get the fit right.  It is inspired by Moresca's Khadija Bodice.  I really liked the shoulders of their design.



This one is more complex and tailored than the previous more simple Turkish-style vest I wear.  However, it still has the laces on the front and sides.  I'm hoping to start on the coat version for myself at some point before fall of next year.  I will extend the length down to probably mid calf or slightly shorter.



For her bodice, we chose green, purple and black to match skirts she already had.  I used purple, navy blue and black fabric polar fleece, but the green is a satin ribbon.  The satin really shines with the tabs, but can snag easily which makes weaving go slower.



I did some experimenting with coloring tabs for this one.  (I believe I have mentioned trying oven cleaner to turn the tabs white.  This gives them a surface paint will adhere to better.)  I decided to color the white tabs with marker and seal with clear spray paint.  Though labor intensive, it worked really well.  The color is vibrant and stays on the tabs without scratching or chipping.  I also sprayed some of the tabs with gloss black.

 

Here's another closer look at the purple and black tabs.  The purple tabs are actually a mixture of pink and violet waterbase marker.  I scribbled it on and blended the color by spraying with water.  To fix the color, I covered the dry tabs with a clear coat spray paint.



I'm please with how it looks and fits on her.  It's nice to be able to have color on the tabs that won't scratch off with normal wear.



We had a blast at TRF this year.  We managed three trips down there.  It's so much fun each time in the faire as well as at the campground where these pics were taken. We seem to always have the best people camping around us.  Such a variety of creativity and talent!  This year we had ample good drummers, a flute/bagpipe player, a mead maker, a face/body painter and more.  The pics were taken while an extremely talented friend, Lauren, was doing some face painting.  She not only paints, but also makes some gorgeous jewelry using glass and other materials.  You can check out some of her work at FUZDcreations.

Probably won't hear much more from me before the end of the year.  Really wanting to have more time to make tabistry.  So many things I still would like to try, especially with corsets.  However, I think my New Year's resolution will be to get more tutorials finished.  Hopefully I will find a way to get them done faster.  Thank you for the patience with me.  Enjoy the Holidays!

Warrior Woman Tabistry Lamellar Armour - A New Underbust Corset/Bra Design in the Works

Tabistry lends itself well to appearing like chainmaille, or more specifically scalemaille.  Actually, I learned that weaving tabs is very similar to traditional lamellar armor making.  Lamellar armor is made up of small pieces of metal or leather held, or woven, together with cord of some kind.  So, I attempted an armor-like outfit for Sherwood Faire back in April loosely inspired by TV show Xena, the Warrior Princess.  (Had a wonderful time at Sherwood, btw!  Sorry, there were no action shots.)  I didn't get the arm bracers pictured here finished in time for faire, but I did mange to have the corset, bra and armbands wearable by then.



I've been making changes since then to improve the fit and comfort.  Still have some changes I'd like to make, but I think I'm content enough that I may just finish it up and start a new, more colorful, one.  ;)



Tried some new things on this one.  I used a narrow shaped front to give some extra room in the underbust, or rib cage.  I also shaped a sort of fender or "wheel well" up over the hip.  This gives the appearance of wider hips and a more dramatic silhouette.



I fear I may have made it a slight bit short in front and especially in back.  I don't find this one near as supportive on my back than previous longer line styles.  (I still need to tie off loose ends and secure them.  I can see where some of the stitches are loose around the hip  and bust at the moment.)



Excuse the lacing job, too.  :)  I also need to adjust height of where I tie the laces.  I think it's one set too low.  But, I also tried a different way of attaching the lace tabs.  They are more hidden on this one being set back from the edge.  Over time I imagine it will become more "seasoned" and close up completely in back.



The bust cups are attached to an existing black bra.  I cut the straps off and replaced them with a grosgrain ribbon one that goes around the neck.  I find this two piece style more easy to move around in without mishaps.  This is meant to be worn without an undershirt, and one piece overbust corset designs tend not to stay in place when bending and turning, which a warrior would need to be able to do, right?  :)



These blurry progress shots show it under the cloak I wore with it at faire.  I posted about it a long while back here.  Now, I just need to find some weapons.  Haven't decided what I should wield, yet.  At faire I wore several pointy metal hair sticks in my the bun on my head.  Next time maybe a shield/sword, but I think I prefer just a staff.

So, this is what I have so far.  I'm still tweaking little things.  No matter how many I make, I still seem to find new issues to solve each project I start.  I need to replace the laces for the arm bracers and make some boot covers in a similar style.  I was also thinking about make a short over-skirt type thing of strips hanging down similar to what roman soldier wore.

Hope you enjoyed this post.  And, remember to keep on being can-TAB-ulous!

Tabistry Waist Cincher

New Tutorial/Pattern for my Simple Waist Cincher is available!  This is a great project for a beginner or someone looking to make a medium sized project with about 500 tabs.  If a full corset looks too daunting, this is one you can learn a few skills/techniques from that will raise confidence levels.  It includes a few new techniques and options that are not in my corset tutorial.



I've worn my own cincher for some time now.  It's perfect for event we go to where there is a lot of dancing and moving that a full corset is too restricted for.  I made my first one way back after the pirate corset.  It's a form-fitting design, so there is little worry about fiddling to get the shaping just right as with my more complex corsets.



Though it is a "simple" cincher, this is is an indepth tutorial.  I cover just about everything you could ever want to know about how I constructed the waist cincher.  It includes detailed instruction for three different ways to fit the cincher from readymade pattern sizes (XS-XL) to custom pattern drafting for other sizes.  There are even suggestions for improving the shape of the readymade sizes to fit better.



I included details of how to lace up using what are commonly referred to as "bunny ears" in a variety of tab configurations .



I also include instructions for adding waist tape.  I think this is essential to improving the shape of the finished cincher.



My mom tried the Extra Large size.  To make it unique, and quicker to put on and take off, we added a front closure.  It was an experiment using two different sized tabs and binder rings.  (You know, those rings in the office supply section of stores used to hold hole punched paper together.)  I found a bunch of them at the flea market that I use for all kinds of things.



The binder rings worked really well and made her cincher more unusual in appearance.  But, I was pleasantly surprised to see the tabs held together pretty good on their own.  I need to get some pics of her wearing hers.



If you're interested in making one of these cinchers, you can find it here.  I think my next tutorial will be top hats or baskets.  We shall see.

Stay Tab Tabbed Stays Revisited

Finally sharing some changes I made to my stays I posted here over a year and a half ago.  I try to do this to show how I solve problems in hopes that it may help those who are making their own corset or bodice.  If you're following our Tabistry group on Facebook, you may have seen pics of my first round of alterations.  I've been slowly tweaking different aspects of this particular project ever since then and wearing each version to various events.  I thought it would be great to also show the wonderful shots the hobbyist photographers have so graciously captured of my ever-evolving outfit.



This was taken by Chris Howard at Scarby in 2013 just after I finished the first attempt.  I found the stays were too short in front and the bottom tabs weren't as evenly spaced as I would have liked.  Plus, in my haste I didn't get time to fix the repeating "V" pattern in lower half of the front.  I did really like the black, brown, and teal-ish color-scheme.



My next set of alterations were made before just before October 2013 and worn to the Texas Renaissance Festival.  Michael Lawhorn and Megan Elizabeth got some lovely shots of us outside the Sea Devil Pub for All Hallow's weekend.  (If you're curious, Mr. Sam was dressed as Baron Samedi, while I went as a witch.)   I tried widening the shoulder straps, which I didn't end of liking.  I also changed the front by fixing the "V" pattern, making it longer and adding tabs that branch out to a fork in front.   I also changed the bows on the front of the straps.  (I may eventually go back the the black ones depending on my outfit.)  Overall, I like the longer front.  But, it had a tendency to bend forward with the poofy layers of my bustle, petticoats and the pretty brown skirt I found at a local thrift store that matched my bodice.



Here are two pics Moon Dawg took while we were hanging out after the parade about 6 months later at Scarby in 2014.  As you can see, I went back to narrow shoulder straps, but kept them permanently attached in the back, which helped them not fall off my shoulders as easily.  The only other change made was making the "tabs" along the bottom fan out more evenly by unweaving between the strips up the sides a little.  Seems I got the waist too low when I made the front longer.



In this photo by Shawn Johnson, you can see we decided to repeat our costumes from the year before at TRF this past October for yet another Halloween weekend.  This was the last event I wore these stays, and this is where I'm at on the changes so far.  I added a busk and satin ribbon waist tape for a much better fit around the waist area. I also raised the back up and out at the shoulder blades, which supports the straps even more.



Here you can see the progression of the front.  I hope it has all been improvements. You may notice it is longer now and more shapely at the waist.  Not sure I will ever attempt tabbed tabistry stays again.  I like the silhouette, but think I prefer shaping the sides over the hip in one solid piece.



It isn't pretty, but here's a pic of the internal satin waist tape and a wooden busk used to reinforce and prevent stretching and distortion around the waist area.  The stretchless satin ribbon continues all around the waist.



The changes in the back were the most frustrating.  But, I settled on raising it up higher over the shoulder blades as is more traditional with this style.  (And, as I now know helps keep the shoulder straps up and in place.)  You can see how the waist tape changed the shape of my figure in back of the third image on the right here, as well.  It allowed me to bring in the lace gap more without too much stress on the aluminum tabs.  I've also decided on brown shoe lace for the spiral lacing.  It's laced a bit tighter than I would normally lace it, and the daughter didn't get the top tied correctly, but it was pretty good for her first time helping me.  I think I need to raise the start of the lacing up a wee bit at the bottom so the tabs don't pull in together like that.

Super happy with most of it now.  Still learning a lot about fitting and better construction in my experimenting.  It may not seem like dramatic differences here, but getting it right makes a world of difference in overall appearance and comfort.  I should get a tutorial available for this and various other projects some time next year after the store is open again.

A Look Back on Corsets/Bodices

***  UPDATED to include newer bodices/corsets  ***
A comment made during my early corsets/bodices experimenting has been stuck in the back of my mind to this day.  Someone basically said all corsets pretty much look the same.  And, that is just simply not true.  I've learned so much about proper fitting and different styles after studying what was popular throughout history.  Each style has a particular purpose for a different silhouette.  I've been looking back through the corsets/bodices I've created with can tabs these past years.  I thought putting them all side by side would be a neat comparison.  This ought to show the naysayers that corsets, especially those made of tabs don't all have to look alike, right?  (You can click the image below for a larger view.)



These were my tabistry interpretations in order of creation* from left to right:

1. Empire Waist Bodice 2008, inspired by late 18th century Italian. (turned into belly dance costume)
2. Cone-shaped Bodice 2008, inspired by 16th century bodices.
3. Waist Cincher 2008/2015, inspired by "waspies", or short corsets of the 1900's. *
4. Hourglass Corset 2009, inspired by the Victorian hourglass shape.  (used in this ballgown outfit),
5. Underbust Steampunk Corset 2012, inspired by underbusts worn throughout history.
6. Victorian Gusseted Corset 2013, inspired by Victorian Hourglass/Pipe Stem styles.
7. Tabbed Stays 2013, inspired by long triangular 18th century stays.
8. Underbust with Bra 2015, warrior woman inspired modern style set.

*  The waist cincher (third on over) is a reconstruction after I cannibalized the original to reuse the tabs on other things. (So glad I don't have to resort to that anymore!)  The one shown was actually completed after the red/black gusseted corset (#6).

There are also a few pieces that are not shown here.  They are the green bodice I made my mother, a pink bodice for my daughter, and my Turkish Vest/Bodice.  One other is a cupped corset I started and never finished.  I took some progress pics of the cupped corset a long time ago, but I never seemed to get the fit right.

I think I've come a long way.  Of all the styles, I've found that the Victorians really took their corsetry to new levels.  They can be quite complex.  If you're curious, I think the Gusseted Corset is my most successful and easy to recreate.  (This is one reason it is the first to become a tutorial.)  The middle corset above, light blue and tan, was the most difficult to construct/alter due to the shape of the individual panels.

Its funny how I took these shots (except the last one) awhile back when I'd had a little too much sun.  I was pretty proud of myself for lacing them all on my own for the pics.  Some need a bit of adjustment, but I didn't have an assistant available to help.

In the future, I would like to attempt a few other styles such as a more S-curve corset and revisit stays and modern cupped styles.  I'll hopefully be posting the changes to the Tabbed Stays in the near future.  I plan to wear it this weekend to Scarby ren faire.  Crossing fingers I can get some decent pics.  And, of course, I've still got several tutorials on my to do list.

Corset Pattern Finally Available!

Gusseted Hourglass Corset pattern/tutorial is finally available on Etsy! 

We've moved to Patreon! 



This is the pattern for my Gusseted Corset.  It is much simpler to fit/alter than the other paneled ones.  Besides being a wee more complicate to weave, it really is easier to get a good fit.  Just know that it will set you back about 2000 tabs.  That's close to a half of a gallon worth.


I'm so happy that Etsy is now offering "Instant Digital Downloads". No more waiting for me to setup and send file links after transaction. You ge the files as soon as payment is complete. So, that means I also won't have to watch my inbox 24/7. Though, I probably will anyway. :)  So, anyone who tries the instant dl, let me know how your experience goes.  If I need to switch it back to manual, I'm happy to do so.  YOu can find the corset pattern at :

https://www.etsy.com/listing/150885162/tabistry-gusseted-corset-pattern-and

We've moved to Patreon! 
 
I do still plan to make the paneled corset patterns available to those who want them, but I'm still fussing with the alteration instructions.  If this project looks too daunting for a beginner, or you're short on tabs, a pattern for a simple waist cincher is available!  Look for that at the Patreon link, as well. 

Stay Tab Tabbed Stays!* ;)

I've made revisions to these stays.  Go here to see the results.

****************UPDATED*****************

Say that five times fast!  Haha!  (Oh dear.  Is my geek showing?!)



Been working on a new Corset/Bodice design. This one is inspired by the triangular-shaped Rococo, or late Baroque style Bodices from the 18th century.  It has straps and "tabs" all around the bottom edge.



While I was writing up the corset tutorial, I realized I was missing this important style that I'd really wanted to attempt.  So, conveniently, I decided to remedy this just in time for faire last weekend.  :)  I still have some changes I would like to make to it.



For one, I started adding a "V" pattern about a third of the way up. I need to fix the lower portion, and I want to make the front longer anyway. And, I'd like to  change the back and make the straps permanently attached there. I'm also thinking of adding something like "waist tape" to strengthen the waist of the corset and maybe some "stays", or a busk in front.
* If the title of this post has confused you, I'll explain. If it wasn't ironic enough to have a tabbed corset made of tabs, you might be interested in another nerdy bit. These corsets were once referred to as "stays" (used plural) due to the boning. AND, the modern type of can tab I used are referred to as "stay tabs" because they stay on the can unlike the older "zip tops". So, technically these would be Tabbed Stays made with Stay Tabs!  :)   I'll post this corset again when I get the changes made.  But, hopefully not before the corset tutorial is finished and up.  Until then, be can-TAB-ulous!!

Victorian Hourglass-style Tabistry Corset - Take 2

Been working on the long overdue Tabistry Corset Tutorial, but got distracted by an idea to try shaping a new corset with something like gussets, or inserts.  I promise, I am trying to get the tutorial done.  Hey, at least this way it may come with another pattern option.  :)

Not sure why I keep trying new styles of corsets/bodices.  It's just a fun challenge for me.  And, I like wearing them.  (Kinda like a portable hug.)  ;)  I remember someone posted that essentially there isn't much difference in corsets and that all can tab corsets will look the same.  I think that's a bunch of poo.  And, I'd like to thumb my nose at that comment.  On my previous corsets I've posted about, I'd always shaped the panels flat and joined to achieve a curve.  Doing this, it was hard to alter the corset once it was woven. So, this time I tried just making a bunch of vertical strips, kinda like on the last tabistry top hat.  I started joining the strips at the waist being the narrowest part. Then added in what was needed at the bust and hips.  So, much easier to alter if you don't get it just right.  As you can probably see, this can allow for a more drastic transition in width, too.  And, I can add or subtract from the vertical strips to get the right length all the way around. Plus, it gives a bit more support for the bust, now that I can actually shape it more like a cup.  Though, this could easily be made into an underbust, as well.

You can't see it, but I've got a removable wooden paintstick "busk" down the front to keep it stiffer.  It really wasn't necessary, and I may not actually wear it, but it does prohibit me from slouching.  That center decoration in front was just an odd earring I found.  I was going to tie a ribbon bow there.

I laced it with two (actually four) laces starting at the center back.  I think this is called "bunny ears"?  It makes the corset stay tighter at the center to help the hourglass-shape.  Oh, and sorry, felt I had to "photoshop" this last pic of the back.  I only had bright neon orange shoelaces to try it on with.  So, I used some magic to make them a quick red to match.  Just wish I had these red laces.  When I wear it on the for an upcoming event, I will probably replace this with black ribbon. 

I'm really pleased with the way this one turned out.  It's a great fit and easier to make/alter.  Can't wait to wear this to a steampunk event in March!   The only negative side to it was the number of messy looking ends to tie off on the inside, which I could have reduced if I'd put a little forethought into it.  Guess I will never be completely happy.  I still want to try some other styles of corset in the distant future, but I will try not to let them distract me from getting the tutorial finished.  Until then, be can-TAB-ulous!!

Steampunk Corset Reworked

So sorry to have taken so long to post about this steampunk tabistry corset's updates. I've worn it several times since finishing it. I have no excuse for not sharing it, except that I was still tweaking the outfit that goes with it. But, the important part is I'm getting to it now, right?



I've made many changes since the last post here. For one, I adjusted the fit in the front. The unberbust part was too high. It still could be a hair lower, I think. :) I also changed out the front laces for metal belt pieces to appear more like a busk look. I found some pleather purse straps to use as shoulder straps. And, for purely aesthetic interest, I added leather buckled straps to the sides, gold buttons and some brown trim all around the edges for a more finished look.



All in all, I think it turned out pretty nice. And, the nail polish painted tabs that I mentioned in the first post are holding up splendidly. I will probably be using the paint again on other pieces.



You can read more about the rest of the outfit I'm wearing at my general craft blog here. I have other tabistry projects planned for the near future. So, you should be hearing from me again here when I get to weaving. In the meantime, have a can-TAB-ulous time!

Another crazy October has passed...

...and I finally finished a tabistry project! Yay!

Meet the new corset addition. I finally finished an underbust corset and matching mini top hat just in time for Halloween. The corset still needs some minor adjustments around the front top edge. I was strapped for time and just had to go with it. I'm debating to remove or add some tabs where the lacing is. The gap where the lace holes begins is not suitable to me. I also plan to add a trim around the whole corset to finish it off better. That ought to help out a bit.



The hat was actually created on the 4+ hour drive on the way to faire. I was working on the brim the next morning as the others were still getting dressed. :) I want to play with the style of it a little bit more. Then, I will most likely adding it to the POP TOP hat tutorial available on Etsy.com



Remember back when I mentioned I'd share a new technique on giving tabs some color. Well, this was the project I'd been meaning to discuss it on. If you look closely at the pic below, you'll see that I wove the tabs upside down and that I hand painted each one with fingernail polish. I made a graduating pattern from gold to burgundy to dark purple to black and back down to gold. I think the paint really tones down the shiny silver tabs.



Since this was to be a steampunk piece, I wanted something a little different. As you might, or might not, have noticed, I tried something new on the seams. I wove them together using more tabs running across the seam. When it is pulled apart the tabs kinda peak through.



You can read about the whole steampunk outfit on my craft blog here. Ciao, until next time!!